Luring Theo to Cologne Cathedral--love lockets and fish

Years ago I visited Cologne, Germany and never forgot how wondrous the Cologne Cathedral was. I had to see it again.

Dan is willing, but Theo is as reluctant as ever. He tilts his head sideways. "What's there to eat?" asks the schnitzel boy, aka Theo, the gangster cat. 

Dan knows the answer. "Himmel un Aad," which is a mixture of potatoes, apples and blood sausage. 

I think I'll pass. Theo blinks.

"We'll find you some fish." We weren't born yesterday. There's more than one way to lure a cat into a cathedral.

But first the city of Cologne itself. As we arrive, Dan tells Theo that Cologne is 2,000 years old (founded in 38 BC) and known for it's Gothic architecture, the twin-spired Cologne Cathedral (of course), Kolsch beer (crisp, pale ale), and it's the birthplace of Eau de Cologne perfume.  

And the bridge. The Hohenzollern Bridge is unique in that it has become the place where lovers declare their undying love by attaching a lovelock. Several hundred thousand locks adorn the bridge. The tradition began in 2008. 

Theo takes it all in stride, looking and sniffing around as we saunter across the bridge and get closer and closer to the Cathedral. 

"This is a special place, Theo." Suddenly phrases like "stunning stained glass" and "relics from saints" pop out of Dan's mouth. 

Known facts: Saints Felix and Nabor and St. Gregory of Spoleto--are buried underneath the cathedral. It's also the most visited landmark in Germany with approximately 20,000 visitors a day. And in 1996 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This cathedral is immense. "How long did it take to build?" Going somewhere with Dan is like bringing along an encyclopedia or instant access to AI on google.

"Well, they started building it in 1248 and it was finished in the 1880's so about 600 years."

And to think it could have been destroyed during World War II. But . . . it was deliberately spared by the Allies because of its historic and religious significance.

We have to stand in line to get into the cathedral--that's how popular it is. And it's totally worth it. Despite the meowing from Theo who has now fixated on fish for lunch, we walk around and try to notice everything:

There is the main body of the cathedral where the pews are:

The altar:

Look how elaborate the backdrop is. This is where you donate money and light a candle for a special prayer.

On the walls as you walk around, are the Stations of the Cross. You can follow the entire crucifixion:

Throughout the interior statues abound. Immense in size. Eye-popping.

Finally, Theo plops down and refuses to move another inch. 

"Can we eat?" he meows.

The kid not only looks hungry but totally worn out. 

"It's enough." I agree. I could stay for another few hours, but Theo has his limits. 

Dan picks him up and gives him a gigantic hug. "Yes, buddy, we're leaving now. Fish it is!" 

Happy Valentine's Day

 Gone but not forgotten. Chuck, the rascal cat, was my inspiration and the used to be star of Hot Blogging with Chuck. Theo has taken over, but Chuck will always have a place in my heart. 

Love conquers hate. Always.

Happy Valentine's Day.

Koblentz, Schnitzel and Theo

 The question of the day is what to do once we arrive in Koblentz, Germany's oldest city. During World War II 87% of the city was bombed and destroyed. Today it's an interesting mixture of the old and the new. A building dating back one thousand years will stand near a new building circa 1970. 

"Where are we going again?" Theo meows.

"Koblentz." Because there are things we want to see--the old market square, for example. A wonderful exhibit from the Berlin wall (I know this does not sound exciting) that commemorate the end of fascism. One of the oldest churches in Germany . . .

For Theo, it's all about the schnitzel. He wants to eat the schnitzel. Can cats eat schnitzel? What is it, anyway?

Koblentz is where two rivers meet--the Rhine and the Moselle. It was originally established as a Roman military post by Drusus in 8 BC. The old section of Koblentz is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Theo understands none of this. He has one mission only--the schnitzel.

"Okay. Okay. But first we need to see the town."

In Jesuitenplatz we spot a statue of a man in reflective thought on a building. You don't see that in the U.S.!

We find the famous status of the spitting boy, and sure enough, he is spitting water out of his mouth:

We see these marvelous old buildings with murals:

There is so much to see.

Then we head off to see the walls. Theo meows, "Are we there yet? Where's the schnitzel?"

Dan steps up to the plate. "I'll handle this." He is chock full of facts. 

"Look here. Do you see these walls?"

I'm posing in front. Then Dan poses in front. Theo sulks on the sidelines.

Dan summarizes: In 1990 western Germany was reunified with eastern Germany when the Berlin Wall was knocked down. These walls segments commemorate all those who were arrested, tortured, killed, and persecuted in the forty years of communist rule. We're talking about 200,000 political prisoners, 150,000 children in special institutions, children forced into adoption, thousands who were displaced and scores of others who bravely opposed the wall that separated the east from the west. 

Theo is barely listening, or is he? As soon as Dan finishes, he adds in a whisper, "We're getting closer to the Schnitzel."

We're off. 

"We're on our way," I assure him but first we have to see a really old church--The Basilica of Saint Castor. Built in 836 A.D. It's famous not only because it is old, but also throughout the centuries it hosted signings of treaties, etc. Of historical importance.

I like to walk inside old churches. My imagination runs wild. I think about people centuries ago coming and going. Kneeling to pray. How the world looked then one thousand years ago. This particular church is simple and beautiful inside:

I hear a strange noise. Dan is holding Theo, and his stomach is growling. "Theo, stop that. You're in a holy place of worship."

Theo meows. "I have to do it, see?"

More gangster talk. It's surprising he's not struck down by a bolt of religious lightning.

Dan takes control. "Schnitzel time."

Schnitzel in Germany is tantamount to pizza in Italy. It is meat fried in spices with some kind of delicious coating. 

We order three schnitzels so Theo can have one all to himself. No, he's not jumping up onto the table. I cut up the schnitzel and then place this delicious platter on the floor near our feet. 

Can that cat eat!

Castles or Nap--Theo Decides

 I want to say--I give up. What more castles? I'd like to blame Theo, but this time he's the innocent one. We're booked for a scenic ride down the Rhine River--on our way to Koblentz. It's described as scenic and filled with fairytale like castles.

Normally, we'd be thrilled. Doesn't everyone dream of living in a castle at least once in their lives? But how many castles can Germany offer? Did everyone live in or near a castle back then?

Before we go outside on deck, I struggle to get a photo of Theo, but he's a wily one. Not exactly shy. I end up with a tail as he scoots behind a chair. 

Now Theo, who hasn't whispered a meow, is perched on deck, ready to take in the sights. He has a plastic pop-up bowl filled with special treats, we have our chairs in a far-away corner of the deck so we won't be bothered, and we begin to sail.

Castle sighting number one:

Castle sighting number two:

Adorable houses perched on the side of the river:

Castle sighting number three:

We pass an unusual structure--is it a castle? Indeed, it is. Officially this is Pfalzgrafenstein Castle. How cool! 

And then we hit the highlight of the excursion. Loreley (Lorelei.) Legend has it that this rock--yes, that's what you're looking at--a large rock that rises 440 feet above the river. Legends of sirens, women who lure sailors to their death on the rocks with sweet songs. The legend dates back to Ancient Greece. There's also an Ancient Germanic legend which places a golden-haired siren here:

Final castle sighting. 

Can a cat be in seventh heaven? All his snacks are gone. I look over and he's stretched out a bit too comfortably on the chair. I move closer. Is the kid sleeping? 

Did he see even one of those castles?

Later, Theo assures me that he saw them all . . . before he fell asleep and had the most delicious nap. 

Inside Heidelberg Castle - Ancient Apothecaries and a Mummy

 I'll be honest. We lure Theo to stay longer in Heidelberg because we make a sudden decision to visit inside the castle. Yes, as soon as Theo hears the word "castle," he's interested. For a while.

"Do you want to go inside and see . . ."

Theo immediately nods. "I want to go."

"Well, this may not be what you're expecting . . ." 

"I have to go, see?" 

Just like a gangster. 

So, in my defense, Theo never gives us a chance to explain that we want to go (Dan and I) in the basement where there are ten rooms of an exhibit that has little to do with castles. Nevertheless, Theo agrees and off we go. 

The German Apothecary Museum (think ancient pharmacies and medicine ranging from antiquity to the present) is our goal. It is a magnificent exhibit.

We see painted cabinets of a former apothecary in a monastery.

We see Baroque style apothecaries.

We see all sorts of apothecary containers (where they kept the medicine) in glass and colorfully painted majolica.

We see a lab and all its equipment. 

We saunter past what the museum tells us is 1,000 medicinal products from an older time.

We learn how nature played a huge role during the Middle Ages in healing people. Plants, of course.  We even see the original medicine for migraines.

We're fascinated. Theo is less so. So we have to lure him along, finally suggesting/promising that we might be able to glimpse a pulverized mummy, that was believed to heal coughs, sore throats, broken hearts, shivers and headaches. 

Theo buys in.

No, we never do see the mummy, but just the thought that we might-- what people used to believe would help them feel better can scare the bejabbers out of you.