Theo and the Regensburg Sausage Kitchen

 Theo agrees to go to Regensburg--another quaint historic city on the Danube River--because it hosts a Sausage Kitchen that still serves sausage and sauerkraut, the oldest continuously operating public restaurant in the world (1135AD.) That information is kind of mind blowing. I want to taste the sausage myself. I love sauerkraut. So I sympathize with Theo. As usual the kid is hungry. As usual we'll have to listen to his plaintive meows as we tour around this famous city. 

"First we see the city. Then we'll eat."

Theo frowns and shakes his head.

"Sorry, buddy. But this isn't a gourmet eating tour. You'll get your sausages, I promise."

Skeptical. Unhappy. And, of course, hungry. I try to distract him.

"Look."

We've just spotted one of the city's key attractions--a stone bridge built in the 12th century (the oldest bridge in Germany) which for years was the only bridge across the Danube. Can you imagine? If anyone wanted to cross the Danube, they needed a boat for years!

Luckily, Regensburg was not bombed by the Allies during WWII so we can see the gorgeous Renaissance and Gothic style buildings that define the town. Regensburg is one of the biggest medieval cities north of the Alps. Its history spans 2,000 years, beginning as a military camp in 179AD by the Romans and later growing into a bustling hub due to its location on the Danube. The city is very livable. We pass an open air market and have to literally pick Theo up as we walk on by:

The Protestant Reformation literally began in Regensburg. Martin Luther (and others) led a movement against the Catholic Church, upset over the selling of indulgences, etc. resulting in the formation of various Protestant sects. Nevertheless, the Regensburg Cathedral (the Cathedral of St. Peter) lies in the heart of the city. Two towering spires extend 105 meters into the air. Stained glass windows from the 13th and 14th centuries let the light in. The interior is glorious:

Walking through a cathedral, gawking at the art work, statues and the sheer magnificence of the place wears Theo down. Maybe it's my imagination, but I can hear his little tummy growl. 

Off to the sausage kitchen. The place is packed. There is eating inside (waiting list) and out. We stand in line and put in our order--sausage and sauerkraut on a delicious roll. We pay and then walk over to a window in the kitchen and wait for our food. Theo doesn't quite understand why there is a delay.

We find a table that overlooks the Danube. The day is sunny with a slight breeze. Dan puts the sausage sandwiches on a table. By this time we're drooling. But then the unthinkable happens. 

In a blink of an eye Theo jumps up on the table, grabs a sausage out of the roll, leaps down again with the sausage securely in his mouth and begins running towards the river. We are more than astounded. 

Dan runs after him but loses sight of the gangster cat. Where did he go? 

"I give up," Dan says.

"He'll come back." I don't know why I'm so calm, but I figure he's looking for a quiet place to eat. 

We wolf down our sandwiches, and sure enough, I spot him, licking his chops, walking confidently across the stone floor towards our table.

I can hear his excuses running through my head. "I had to do it." or "I was starving." 

"Theo."

"I did what I had to do," he says before he proceeds to lie down at our feet and close his eyes.

"Let it be," Dan says. And I do.

Finally, we head off in search of Port Praetorian, a Roman style gate built from massive blocks of stone--the oldest gate in Germany--dating back to 2AD. It is well preserved and much bigger than I imagine it will be. For a moment I imagine walking through the gate and ending up back in time, able to glimpse the way life was centuries ago. 

No, that doesn't happen. We remain firmly rooted in 2025, but as we're leaving this city, I ask Dan and Theo--what was the highlight. For me it was the cathedral. Dan picks Port Praetorian. For Theo, it was the sausage kitchen. I'm not surprised. 

Theo Cold Shoulders St. Stephen's Cathedral

 In honor of our brother-in-law Stephen who is married to my youngest sister Cyndi, we're determined to visit St. Stephen's Cathedral in Passau, Germany, named after St. Stephen, a Christian martyr who was stoned to death. Even though we're not fans of organ music, when you have the opportunity to hear one of the world's largest pipe organs with 17,774 pipes--you listen. St. Stephen's Cathedral dates back to the 17th century where it underwent a reconstruction after it almost burned to the ground. Formerly it was constructed in the Gothic style. The renovation introduced the grand Baroque style. Think fancy and gold. Think bling.

"Are you excited to see the inside of the church?" I ask Theo.

No. The answer is no. As we trudge closer and closer to St. Stephen's, Theo finds every excuse to delay. He is interested in every bird he spots along the way and wants to investigate. Because he is a cat.

He spots a squirrel, and he needs to investigate him also.

Then he's starving. He needs a snack. We have to stop and pull out some of our dried cat food we keep on hand, just in case. I expect him to scarf it down, but instead he eats each morsel carefully and slowly.

"I know what you're doing, Theo. Speed it up." He doesn't. 

Then we're on the move again. I point out some highlights of the city. I love to capture those special bits that make the city unusual, different, that remind us that in these old places they used to put angel statues on building walls.

We follow a brightly colored stone path that leads to the artist's quarter:

We see a bat suspended from a building in an alley and a king with a scepter on the wall of another building:

We pass a beautifully decorated clock tower and then a mosaic of three lions holding up a drawing of another lion. 

Finally we reach the cathedral and take a minute to admire the odd style with its quirky decorations.

The cathedral is closed. There is a mass going on and no one (no tourist, they mean) is allowed inside the church. 

I can't believe it. These are things beyond our control. I'm shaking my head in frustration when I glance down at Theo. An ugly thought pops into my head.

"What did you do, Theo?"

He looks up at me--all innocence.

I get ahold of myself. Of course, he couldn't have done anything. But he looks so self satisfied, sitting there, staring at the cathedral as if he has performed some miracle, or did he wield some dark magic?

"I'm so disappointed," I say to no one in particular.

But Theo doesn't seem the least bit concerned or disappointed. He wants to eat again. 

"Let's go to lunch," Dan suggests.

We are in for the surprise of our lives . . . tune in next week.

The Birds of Melk

 This is my version of our visit to the infamous Melk Abbey, located on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube River in Austria and dating back to 1089. Believe it or not, Leopold II gave one of his castles to the Benedictine monks. First it was a school for monks and then later evolved into a monastic library, known for its extensive collection of manuscripts (especially musical compositions.) This was in the time before books were printed (Gutenberg 1440).

Today the abbey (rebuilt between 1702 and 1736) is Baroque in style, which means fancy and ornate.

That's what Dan and I notice when we first arrive. It is immense. It can be seen for miles, it's decorated with statues and gold, and you face a giant courtyard.

I can't resist taking a video:

The part of the story that I love is that it seems to be indestructible and somehow managed to survive:

a fire in 1297 (the monks saved the manuscripts)

a Turkish invasion in 1683

another fire in 1702

another fire in 1974 when it was restored from 1978-1995.

We are promised a tour of the inside, and it is dazzling. No photos allowed, of course, but you can bet there are statues and murals and ceilings that overwhelm you. Opulence is the word I'm using here.

Theo can care less. He is a reluctant visitor to this fabulous abbey. Imagine no excitement or exuberance. One painting is like any other. We surreptitiously let him sniff what we can, but who knows what he's thinking. 

This is Theo's version of his forced visit to Melk:

"I didn't want to go. Meow. Meow. They made me go, see? Who cares about an abbey? Who cares about thousand year old statues?"

"Theo, there must have been something you liked." 

He pauses and rests his head on his beautifully defined paws. 

"One thing," I urge him.

"Oh," he says, lifting his head up, "the birds."

What? And then I remember. As we are touring around this wonderful place (my words, not Theo's), we step out of the abbey into a courtyard in the middle of the castle/abbey. And there are birds.  No, we're not talking ostriches or eagles. Just regular birds.

And those birds make Theo's day!

Thanks for all your continued support over the years. Theo loves the fact that so many of you log on and read his adventures. Theo is taking next week off--July 29, 2025. We'll be back the week after that with a peek inside Theo's life at home with Mico and Sienna.  

Theo Cruising the Danube

 

Most of us hear the word cruise and think--yeah!!! That sounds like fun. Theo, the gangster cat, thinks--why would I like a cruise? His question comes out like a low-sounding growl meow. 

The truth is we hated leaving the Schonbrunn Zoo and Vienna. But a leisurely cruise down a portion of the Danube River where we do nothing but relax and watch the sometimes gorgeous and sometimes baffling scenery can't be all bad. Can it? 

The Danube River is Europe's second longest river, which flows through Germany, Hungary, Austria, Slovakia, and Serbia. We'll be traveling on only a small portion of the river (in Germany) for the next few days and making stops along the way. 

We're not quite sure what we're going to see, but we're prepared for anything. Theo is, of course, skeptical that we'll spy anything of interest. I disagree. He counters that this cruise is a giant opportunity to take a long and well deserved nap. 

"But . . . you're going to miss out on some really great stuff," I tell him. "How about if we wake you up if we roll by anything spectacular?"

He doesn't agree and he doesn't disagree. Why are so many of our compromises with Theo based on an uneasy truce?

Imagine Dan and I in deck chairs on the top deck. We have a perfect view of the river and the river bank. Theo is nestled on the deck between us, on top of a cozy blanket. He settles in and his eyes immediately snap shut. Is he really sleeping or only cat napping?

We pass our first noteworthy, not so noteworthy site:

What is it? It looks like a dilapidated house so it must be a ruin. No, don't wake Theo for this.

Ah, this is more like it. The kind of village where you want to walk around--the picture perfect antiquish town--cobblestone streets, old churches--a glimpse into the way life used to be. I turn to shake Theo awake, but Dan stops me with a quick shake of the head.

Regular people houses. So this is what a contemporary Danube River house looks like. I like the red roofs. Should we wake Theo? Dan votes no.

 

It takes us awhile to figure this one out. We see the large protruding rock but what is that underneath? Some kind of statue? It must be. 

And finally some greenery. We know the land near a river is often fertile and perfect for planting vineyards. Wine and more wine. We think this is what we see. Still, Theo is no wine drinker. We leave him napping.

We see more of the same---picturesque houses, beautiful scenery and a lovely terraced vineyard that is eye-popping. Theo is fast asleep.

Parts of the river is, well, just river stuff. 

And then, we get the view that we can write home about. Surely, Theo will relish this one. He has to see this one, I think. Dan looks skeptical.

"Let the kid sleep."

"But this one will make his day," I insist.

"Will it?"

You tell me. Should we have woken Theo up for this view?

Theo and One Disgusting Vulture

 When you're traveling with a gangster cat like Theo, don't even think of visiting a zoo, especially the Tiergarten Schonbrunn, without visiting the aviary exhibit. But stay clear of the vultures!

We're on our way to find the elusive polar bears when Theo spots the sign for the birds. It's beginning to rain, and Theo doesn't like getting wet. We'll duck in for a minute. What can go wrong?

We pass a few exhibits of birds--no idea what kind of birds we're looking at and no time at all to find out. Immediately Theo is enthralled. He stops, crouches down and begins to do what cats always do when they spot a bird--their tails wag back and forth, their mouth opens and they make a half cackling half I'm going to bite your head off sound. 

I've seen Theo react this way many times before. Theo can be behind glass and the birds can be way off in the trees somewhere, but if he spots them, he wants them.

"I just want to sniff them," he says all innocence but you would have to be insane to let Theo get within 50 feet of a bird. Sure, they can fly, but this kid is fast. That urge to sniff a bird propels him like a rocket.

Which is exactly what happens. Theo disappears and reappears in front of the vulture exhibit. It is the bird to beat all birds. Mr. Vulture  has a black body, red head devoid of feathers, and a wingspan of about three feet.   

We notice he is carrying a mouse in his mouth. I've never seen that before. The poor thing--Mickey, Minnie (my heart breaks to think about it) is half in and half out. I can see its tail dangling down. 

Theo is enthralled. A few minutes turns into many minutes as Theo watches this vulture perch on a branch, a mouse dangling from his mouth. Will the vulture eat the mouse in front of us? Will he drop it and will it scurry away in a last bid for survival? 

I know little about vultures, only what I've seen in movies so I consult David Swanson's article on vultures: What do vultures eat? 

I learn a slew of disgusting facts. Despite the fact that vultures have a perfect sense of smell, excellent eyesight and can fly high above the Earth's surface, they smell terrible because they're not only carnivores but can feed on rotting carcasses like mice, lizards and insects. They have a highly acidic stomach which breaks down their food quickly and prevents them from getting sick from botulism, etc. They also have a unique defense mechanism--they can vomit the entire contents of their stomach to distract a predator, giving them time to fly off and reach speeds of about 30 miles per hour. They can consume 20% of their body weight in one sitting. And they urinate on their own legs to lower their body heat. That's why he stinks.

Because Mr. Vulture is behind glass, we can't smell him or hear him, but vultures do hiss, grunt and cackle as they feast. They are messy eaters but afterwards will take a swim and meticulously clean themselves.

It hits me. Should I be letting Theo get too close and watch a potential massacre unfold? Is he old enough for this? Then I realize the poor little mouse is dead so there won't be much drama. Of course, meanwhile, Theo is sniffing, sniffing the outside of the cage looking for a way in. I don't doubt it for a minute.

I try to get a video because frankly I'm a bit mesmerized myself, but there's an horrendous glare on the glass. We wait another few minutes, but the vulture does absolutely nothing. 

"Theo, can we go now?"

It has stopped raining temporarily, and we have a far way to walk to reach the subway station and get back to our hotel. 

If Theo could moonwalk backwards, he would. Imagine watching the final episode of a blockbuster series and your partner threatens to turn it off. Theo wants to see everything.

Dan comes to the rescue. "We have to go now."

Eventually Theo is ready. Fun fact: despite the disgusting nature of vultures, they are considered friendly and even harmless birds that other birds avoid--you guessed it--because they smell so bad.