When we arrive at Yosemite National Park, we know nothing about mountain climbing. Well, I know one thing--it is a wickedly dangerous sport. A sport, I assume, for daredevils or thrill seekers. Can you hear the judgment in my words?Let me put it this way--if you pay me, I wouldn't attempt to climb a mountain.
So what are the chances when we arrive in California--that our guide will be a bonafide, professional mountain climber? Who eats, sleeps, and talks incessantly about climbing mountains. He married a mountain climber. His friends were mountain climbers. He read books about mountain climbing. And he carried mountain climbing equipment in his car, just in case a mountain popped into view that he suddenly felt compelled to climb.
Jeff Crow is so into mountain climbing he almost had us convinced that maybe it isn't such a crazy idea, after all. A few days before--as part of our panoramic view--we'd seen two famous cliffs that mountain climbers were drawn to--Grand Sentinel and North Dome and marveled at how high they were. He explains at that very moment there are climbers hanging onto their granite surface. Those little black dots we see with our binoculars from where we stand are actually human beings.
But the best is yet to come. We are on our way to see El Capitan, which is super famous, so famous that it makes a serious mountain climber like Jeff go bananas just to see it. His mouth literally begins to water because El Capitan is 3000 vertical feet of sheer rock formation and presents one of the greatest challenges to mountain climbers. More about that in a moment . . .
Finally, we come to El Capitan. Seeing it in person takes your breath away, especially when you realize that someone actually was able to climb it from bottom to top. Nerves of steel? Obviously.
When someone climbs a mountain, they don't show up for the day and do it. They spend months, sometimes years in preparation. There is the grueling physical training, the need to get your body in shape, the same as a runner who has to run hundreds of miles before he attempts the marathon. There is the no how of how to climb a mountain, ie. the technique. Mountains do not come with stairs that you climb. With your body pressed up against an often flat surface, you must reach for that tiny crevice and pull yourself up. There is the correct equipment, which you hope doesn't break when you're thousands of feet from the earth. And, finally, there is the strategizing sometimes of each and every step you need to take--to find the secret passageway--to assail the mountain.
Mountain climbers often share with other mountain climbers the "road maps" they have developed when they've made successful climbs of certain peaks, outlining the best approach and how to tackle the most difficult areas.
We are encouraged by Jeff to watch a documentary called Free Solo about an autistic climber named Alex Honnold who free soloed El Capitan (meaning he climbed it with no ropes). Remember, El Capitan is a 3000 vertical feet of sheer rock formation in Yosemite. So far, Alex has been the only climber to have climbed it free style. Others have tried and not lived to tell about it.
Hearing Jeff describe his various exploits on the mountain. Watching Free Solo. Examining some of the mountain climbing equipment. And getting up close and personal to one of the mountains--no, not El Capitan, but I can imagine what it would be like to face what looks like a sheet of granite in front of you. There are nooks and crannies that your fingertips feel but even from a short distance away, they're hard to see. Trust me, climbing up a surface like that seems almost impossible.
That evening as the sun sets, we stand close to the surface of one particular mountain side. Jeff is busy explaining how he would attack the surface and what equipment he would use. For the life of me, I can't see a single place where I could even put my pinky finger to grab hold and hoist myself off the ground.
I glance over at Chuck, who looks interested in the mountain. You never can tell with cats. He seems lost in a kind of trance, but he's looking at the mountain. His head tilts and he isn't angling for snacks so that is a good sign.
We are lucky to be staying for two nights at The Ahwahnee, an upscale historic hotel in Yosemite National Park. Built in 1927, it is a beautiful hotel. The granite facade, log beamed ceilings, stone hearths, stained glass, and tapestries harken back to the 1930's Art Deco and Arts and Crafts Movement.
But the best part is the view. The Ahwahnee is located near Half Dome. You can see the mountain if you take a walk after dinner.
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