Theo is a wonder. On one hand, he grows impatient as we roam through cities. He ignores the wondrous architecture. He is an over sniffer, like some people are over thinkers--he sniffs everything from horses to mozzarella cheese.
On the other hand, if something catches his interest, he is all in. But how can I begin to explain that it was Theo's idea to visit another church. Yes. It sounds unbelievable. But this is not just any church.
Theo heard about St. John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta, Malta. The outside, built from limestone, is not remarkable. The inside, however, is described as the finest example of high Baroque architecture in Europe. Which means as we enter, we see a dizzying array of gold, tapestries, statues, paintings and all kinds of ornate decoration on the walls and floors.
The floor is composed of nearly 400 tombstones of knights--each tomb represented by a colored marble slab bearing the crest, coat-of-arms, and epitaph for each knight buried there.
Who's looking at the floor? This place is magnificent. I feel like Alice in Wonderland.
But Theo is not interested in the architecture per se--no surprise there. He's heard through the cat vine that there are two Caravaggio masterpieces in the church. Who is Caravaggio?
If you're not into art, you probably never heard of him. If you are into art, you know he is considered as influential as Michelangelo. He's been called an infamous Italian scoundrel, controversial yet renowned, and known for painting everyday people, not just the rich and famous.
His life reads like a novel. While working as an artist in Rome, he killed a man in a brawl and was given the death sentence. He was forced to flee to Naples, then traveled to Sicily and Malta seeking and getting a papal pardon, returned to Milan, then almost died in another fight which left his face disfigured. When he did eventually die, no one knows if he died of a fever or lead poisoning or murder?
His paintings reflect an intense realism and dramatic lighting.
One is the "Beheading of St. John." It is one of Caravaggio's biggest works and one of the few he signed. It is estimated to be worth millions of dollars, but impossible to put a price tag on. The exhibit wing is crowded.
Sometimes we go places with Theo and no one is there. Sometimes it's crowded and no one cares. But this time we're wary. We figure he can see the painting, but he should stay in the backpack until the coast is clear. Our plan is that as we face the painting, we'll unzip and Theo can peek out. I'll stand on one side and block the side views. We hope everyone's eyes will be on the painting and not looking around.
Theo doesn't like the plan. He would rather scamper off and sniff the painting.
No way. That is not going to happen.
He pouts and makes us feel incredibly guilty, citing prejudice against felines. "If I were a dog . . . " Theo is convinced dogs get better treatment than cats. "In France . . ."
We've heard his arguments before.
"If Chuck were here . . . " That's another one of his favorite arguments. He heard too many stories from Chuck, some true, some exaggerated.
Caravaggio's "Beheading of St. John" is before us.
We move in closer. Theo is straining to see. To his credit, he doesn't meow or whimper, but stares at the painting with rapt attention, the way he watches TV sometimes or, I admit, the birds on the patio.
I point out the obvious things--the realistic depiction of the slayer, the lighting on St. John, the use of color, but Theo seems to be oblivious to all those details.
"Well, do you like it?"
He nods.
Theo likes it. I feel good. As we walk through the church to the outside, I feel on top of the world. "Theo actually appreciates art."
"Let's not get ahead of ourselves," Dan says.
I'm confused. "You saw his reaction."
"Kate, he has that exact look on his face when he's watching the birds on our patio."
He's right. I'm forced to reconsider. Is Theo a Caravaggio enthusiast or bird watcher? A little of both, I think.
