The Gangster Cat in Siracusa

 What is Italy really like? How are Italian cities different from American or European cities? The answer can be as varied as the cities in Italy. But one thing is for sure--Italians are good at using what they have to survive. They host open air markets where many locals (and tourists) shop. They offer loads of old churches. The new Italy is built around the old. In every town there is a square and a fountain.

We arrive in Siracusa, a city that has done its best to utilize the lava that over the years flowed down too regularly from Mt. Etna. The streets of this old Sicilian town are black because they were paved in lava. They are narrow and quaint, engulfed on both sides by old structures. 

The open air market is stupendous. They not only display spices, fruits, veggies, fish and meat and many other local products--dishes, for example. You can literally wander around this market for hours.

Theo is in his element. He loves to sniff everything. We hold tight to him so he isn't trampled to death with all the people milling about, but he is leaning over at each stall, trying to figure out what is there and if it is anything he'll like. To eat. 

 

Theo has no interest in fruits or veggies, but when we reach the fish stand, he starts to wiggle. The nice Italian guy working the stand doesn't help.

"Who are you," he asks in English. "Ah, you like the fish, no?" He picks up a filet and waves it in front of Theo's nose.

This is not a good idea. I don't know what the gangster cat would do to get at the raw fish, but I don't want to take any chances. We take a step backward, then smile and wave goodbye.

The market also offers a "how to make fresh mozzarella" demonstration. This is the local specialty and the core of Sicilian cooking. 

 

We step closer to see the process in action. The mozzarella maker is swishing the newly formed mozzarella in its own liquid. He lifts the delicious Italian cheese up and stretches it. 

Theo spots the mozzarella. He can smell it. He is safely ensconced in Dan's backpack, but he is a young, strong cat, and he wants out. Or more correctly speaking, he wants at the mozzarella. 

"Hold tight," I scream.

Dan, as always, is one step ahead of me. He's already anticipated the possible tragedy. He is holding onto Theo with all his might. Theo struggles valiantly. Is it the slightly milky smell? 

Together we realize that if we weren't more alert, Theo would have jumped into the mozzarella basin. And drowned? At the very least it could have caused an unforgivable international scandal:

Cat absconds with fresh mozzarella. Cat swims in mozzarella basin. 

"You are acting like an ugly American cat," I whisper to him as we leave the market. "We raised you better than that."

Later when we're in our hotel, relaxing, we talk about the market.

"Best day ever," Theo says with a big cat smile.  

Really? 

Theo Investigates the Horrors of Pompei

 Everyone thinks they know the story of Pompei. Read on if you want to know the real story. Only made possible because Theo wants to know and decides to investigate. 

Theo, the gangster cat and my faithful traveling companion, asks the most important questions: why is Pompei so important? what actually happened?

Our local guide--and believe me, you need a guide in Pompei. There is just too much to see. Anyway, he gives us the gist up front:

In 79AD a nearby volcano named Vesuvius erupts (for the first time in 1,000 years) and covers the town of Pompei in approximately eighteen feet of volcanic ash. The eruption destroys the town but, ironically, preserves it. 

Theo narrows his eyes. He says, "I didn't know it was the first time in 1,000 years." (Let me explain. What Theo does know comes from the History Channel.)  

The people of this thriving town die--some breathe in the poisonous gas that drifts into the town. Some die from the intense heat. Others initially escape but return for money and jewelry, misjudge the time, and die.

In essence, time stops in Pompei. It is both a tragedy and an opportunity.

We wander through the museum first because Theo wants to see the bodies, caught in the act of whatever they were doing when the volcanic ash made its way to their door. I can't blame him. Years ago, when I visited Pompei for the first time, I remember seeing some of the bodies, literally frozen in the moment the ash hit, in their houses. Now years later, some have been moved to a museum to help keep them better preserved:

 

They are a ghastly sight. One minute everything was fine. Normal. The next--the entire town they live in is destroyed.

Archaeologists over the years have uncovered the city by carefully removing the ash. From Theo's perspective, he would love to climb into those glass enclosures and sniff, but Dan is holding him tight. Not here. There are too many tourists around. Everyone wants to see the bodies.  

Pompei is immense. Walking around the city will take hours. Our guide is fantastic. He takes us to see everything. We are literally privy to an entire town--with its houses, shops, stadiums, statues, and even some ooh la la houses where the rich and famous lived. 

When we first arrive, the entrance way into Pompei is lined with flowers and trees, in stark contrast to the ancient town that lies ahead. 

The tricky part about visiting these ancient sites is that you have to imagine the way they were. A bustling town. Filled to the brim with people. We glimpse some of the structures that were unearthed from the ash, large pillars that hint at the town's construction:

The large amphitheater gives us an idea of just how many people lived in Pompei:

I'm imagining this amphitheater filled, like the Colosseum, people waiting for entertainment. Music? A play? A speech? 

That's when we spot a streak of gray and black, cruising along the grass and headed for the amphitheater. We're standing off to the side. I glance down. Theo was here a minute ago, sniffing the ground. Now he's running toward the stone arch that is the official entranceway to this outdoor space. 

Dan, my always hero, takes off after the gangster cat. The amphitheater is a big place. If we don't keep Theo within our sight, who knows where he'll end up. 

I arrived at Pompei, imagining it is a small town. I am dead wrong. Since I was here over 20 years ago, so much more of the town has been unearthed. 

Theo has, of course, disappeared now through the arch. Dan disappears too. Luckily, you can touch everything and walk around Pompei. So Dan is not in violation of any Italian laws. I start running too. After both of them.

Dan reemerges with Theo. He is now walking calmly towards me as if there's nothing wrong. It's hot.

"Theo, what were you thinking?"

But the honest truth is--he wasn't thinking. He was being a cat. 

"Was it a squirrel? A bird? What were you chasing?"

He shrugs. "I had to do it, see?"

There is an Edward G. Robinson look on his cat face. All he needs is a lit cigar and one of those 1940 style hats on his head. Ah, he's impatient and wants to see more. 

"No more running away, okay?"

We reach a compromise. A few snacks, some rest in the shade, and we're ready to move on. Pompei awaits.

Next week: Part 2: the rest of the story . . .oh, wait, there will be a special Christmas adventure next week. Pompei will have to wait.