Pompei-The Rest of the Story

 

It is crazy to think that we are walking through the streets of Pompei. In case you forget what Pompei is known for: In 79AD a nearby volcano named Vesuvius erupts (for the first time in 1,000 years) and covers the town of Pompei in approximately eighteen feet of volcanic ash. The eruption destroys the town but, ironically, preserves it, which is the reason why we can today stroll through the ruins and reach the center of town.

Experts see the streets as a marvel of engineering, a grid of paved roads, raised sidewalks and stepping stones that people used to stay dry and avoid the traffic:

We pass a property that is both a living quarters and a store that faced the street. I am fascinated by the stone counter with inlaid containers for vegetables, wine, grain or prepared food. It is a glimpse into how people made a living back then.

The buildings that have been unearthed so far still maintain some of their original color. There are paintings on the walls that were preserved; in some the architecture is stunning:

 

There is an original toilet:

How can a place so old be so modern and similar to our life today? I take some random shots to give you a feel for the Pompei of old:

You're probably wondering how Theo feels about this ancient Italian town. Well, it's a hot day in Pompei. The sun blasts down on us, and I'm forced to wear a hat to keep the overactive sun from blinding me. Theo, of course, is decked out in his gorgeous fur. Dan and I take turns carrying Theo. I carry him some of the time. Enough is enough, but with the crowds of tourists surrounding him, we don't dare let him down. He would either disappear in a split second or be trampled on. 

Finally, our very knowledgeable tour guide suggests that we check out the museum on site. Theo nods. 

"It's cooler in there," I promise. 

He wiggles around, anxious to get down on his own four paws.

"Okay. We'll let you down, but don't do anything crazy, Theo."

We pass a display of amulets, teeny tiny medals of gods that people would put into their coffins to insure safe passage:

Theo is on his best behavior. He trots along beside us. There are other tourists, but it isn't as crowded as I think it will be. No chance of being trampled on here.

We pass an assortment of cups and jugs and dishes:

We pass a colorful painting that was hanging on someone's wall:

We pass a shelf resting on a lion statue:

We pass an intriguing series of four plaques, depicting life in Pompei:

"Theo, check this out." I point to what looks like a pancake griddle pan,  glance down, and realize I'm suddenly talking to myself.

"What the hell?" I whisper too loudly.

"He has to be here somewhere," Dan reassures me.

I look right. Dan looks left. I move backwards. He moves forward.

No Theo.

"This is getting to be a habit," I grouse.

"We'll find him."

The end of this story is not dramatic. Theo is cat napping under the display table with the griddle. His eyes are closed. His ears are twitching.

I lift him out and up. "Did you hear us calling you?"

He gives me the stink eye.

"You know, Chucky (the past star of this blog) never would have done something like this. He was so well-behaved when he traveled with us." 

But even as I say the words, I know they're not true. Chuck was a rascal. This is exactly how he would have behaved. A cat is a cat is a cat. There is no doubt about it. 

Theo Investigates the Horrors of Pompei

 Everyone thinks they know the story of Pompei. Read on if you want to know the real story. Only made possible because Theo wants to know and decides to investigate. 

Theo, the gangster cat and my faithful traveling companion, asks the most important questions: why is Pompei so important? what actually happened?

Our local guide--and believe me, you need a guide in Pompei. There is just too much to see. Anyway, he gives us the gist up front:

In 79AD a nearby volcano named Vesuvius erupts (for the first time in 1,000 years) and covers the town of Pompei in approximately eighteen feet of volcanic ash. The eruption destroys the town but, ironically, preserves it. 

Theo narrows his eyes. He says, "I didn't know it was the first time in 1,000 years." (Let me explain. What Theo does know comes from the History Channel.)  

The people of this thriving town die--some breathe in the poisonous gas that drifts into the town. Some die from the intense heat. Others initially escape but return for money and jewelry, misjudge the time, and die.

In essence, time stops in Pompei. It is both a tragedy and an opportunity.

We wander through the museum first because Theo wants to see the bodies, caught in the act of whatever they were doing when the volcanic ash made its way to their door. I can't blame him. Years ago, when I visited Pompei for the first time, I remember seeing some of the bodies, literally frozen in the moment the ash hit, in their houses. Now years later, some have been moved to a museum to help keep them better preserved:

 

They are a ghastly sight. One minute everything was fine. Normal. The next--the entire town they live in is destroyed.

Archaeologists over the years have uncovered the city by carefully removing the ash. From Theo's perspective, he would love to climb into those glass enclosures and sniff, but Dan is holding him tight. Not here. There are too many tourists around. Everyone wants to see the bodies.  

Pompei is immense. Walking around the city will take hours. Our guide is fantastic. He takes us to see everything. We are literally privy to an entire town--with its houses, shops, stadiums, statues, and even some ooh la la houses where the rich and famous lived. 

When we first arrive, the entrance way into Pompei is lined with flowers and trees, in stark contrast to the ancient town that lies ahead. 

The tricky part about visiting these ancient sites is that you have to imagine the way they were. A bustling town. Filled to the brim with people. We glimpse some of the structures that were unearthed from the ash, large pillars that hint at the town's construction:

The large amphitheater gives us an idea of just how many people lived in Pompei:

I'm imagining this amphitheater filled, like the Colosseum, people waiting for entertainment. Music? A play? A speech? 

That's when we spot a streak of gray and black, cruising along the grass and headed for the amphitheater. We're standing off to the side. I glance down. Theo was here a minute ago, sniffing the ground. Now he's running toward the stone arch that is the official entranceway to this outdoor space. 

Dan, my always hero, takes off after the gangster cat. The amphitheater is a big place. If we don't keep Theo within our sight, who knows where he'll end up. 

I arrived at Pompei, imagining it is a small town. I am dead wrong. Since I was here over 20 years ago, so much more of the town has been unearthed. 

Theo has, of course, disappeared now through the arch. Dan disappears too. Luckily, you can touch everything and walk around Pompei. So Dan is not in violation of any Italian laws. I start running too. After both of them.

Dan reemerges with Theo. He is now walking calmly towards me as if there's nothing wrong. It's hot.

"Theo, what were you thinking?"

But the honest truth is--he wasn't thinking. He was being a cat. 

"Was it a squirrel? A bird? What were you chasing?"

He shrugs. "I had to do it, see?"

There is an Edward G. Robinson look on his cat face. All he needs is a lit cigar and one of those 1940 style hats on his head. Ah, he's impatient and wants to see more. 

"No more running away, okay?"

We reach a compromise. A few snacks, some rest in the shade, and we're ready to move on. Pompei awaits.

Next week: Part 2: the rest of the story . . .oh, wait, there will be a special Christmas adventure next week. Pompei will have to wait.